WWF Bhutan - Kimi Adolph

The Long Trip Home

2010-03-20T07:48:00.000+06:00

How I am getting home...

3.20.2010 - I leave this morning (Saturday) for Paro, Bhutan. I will sightsee there for the day and check into a hotel.

3.21.2010 - My flight from Paro to Dehli, India leaves a little before noon and will take about 3 hours. I will me met at the airport and taken to my hostel in India.

3.22.2010 - I have the entire day in Dehli free, though I am not sure if I will see some more sights or just head early to the airport. My flight leaves Dehli for JKF in New York at 12:30AM.

3.23.2010 - The flight from Delhi will take 16 hours and from here I take 2 more planes, the first to Salt Lake City, the second to Portland. I land there at 2:55PM on the 23rd.

3 days, 4 planes, and more than 25 hours in the air... away we go!

Hike to Cheri

2010-03-19T07:31:00.000+06:00

The hike up to Cheri Goemba was gorgeous. It ended up taking an hour each way and we spent a lot of time in and around the monastery. The meditation rooms look like they are carved directly into the mountainside. Monks remain in the rooms for 3 years, 3 months, and 3 days in isolation.

The main temple houses the ashes of the father of the man who united Bhutan and the entire structure has been in place since the early 16th century. The site is deep in the forest and was exactly the scenery I was hoping for. Birds flitted in the trees around us and the dirt path was all ours until the hike back down.

The goral around the monastery are wild, but well habituated to human presence. It took some time to find them, but after an addition climb of just under 300 stone steps, we came across a little herd. The trip down went quick and we cam across some French tourists. We (Jigme and Pem joined me on the hike) stopped for tea, zhau (fried rice snack), and biscuits. It was a lovely, energizing morning and a great way to say goodbye to Bhutan.

More Sights in Thimphu

2010-03-18T19:51:00.001+06:00

My final day in the main city of Thimphu wrapped up today with a sprinkle of rain. Apparently Bhutan has decided to help me get ready for life back in the Pacific Northwest!

The first stop was to one of the weaving centers in Thimphu. Women were seated in front of their looms hand weaving the kiras and ghos for the men, women, and children of Bhutan. This particular shop was owned by a male weaver (quite unusual), who has won the national award many times and weaves for the King himself.

Next was the public library so I could unload the most of books I purchased to keep my mind busy in Bumthang. The weight limit for the flight out of Paro was my main motivation for donating the books, but any excuse to lose some baggage is fine with me... plus I was able to give a little back to a society that has given so much to me. I was eager to get one more look at one of the strangest creatures I have ever seen, the takins. They were much more habituated than before and cooperated for some fun pictures.

The last stop was a little off the beaten tourist path and we found our way to the National Library. Here some of the oldest texts in the region are stored. There are also letters from the 1700’s and mantras written with bamboo pens from Tibet.

Tomorrow we head out for a 5 hour round trip hike to one of the more famous dzongs in Thimphu and I am hoping to glimpse some wildlife along the way. One more day in Thimphu, then one in Paro, and then its all airplanes until I see some familiar faces on the 23^rd!

Touring Thimphu

2010-03-17T19:54:00.003+06:00

Today I turned in my final report on my placement with WWF Bhutan. It was strange to revisit all the projects and events in Bumthang and to be writing about them in the past tense. Even more strange to put a conclusion on it all. It made it really seem over… how surreal to know that all my tasks here are complete. The website is ready to go and Jigme is working on mastering the design system, I have imparted all the photography knowledge I can, and edited more papers than I care to remember.

Fittingly, Tashi and I sat down to brainstorm the last few places to see in Thimphu before I get on the plane Sunday morning. We came up with a list of 9 more “must-sees” and Jigme graciously agreed to take me around town. I will explain more about these places later, but wanted to get some photos up and show off some cool experiences.

We first went to the Folk Heritage Museum. This is site has a dwelling from 150 years ago preserved exactly as the people who once inhabited it lived. It was, amazingly, not too different from the houses of friends I visited in Bumthang.

Next we went to the Institute for Traditional Arts and Crafts. Here they train students in the formal aspects of the traditional painting, sculpting, and casting. Since the program just began a few days ago they were not yet working so hopefully we can return Friday to see them in action. Some of the more experienced students were working on their final project… a huge clay sculpture of The Four Friends.

A few other temples and a giant statue of Buddha (when it’s finished it will be one of the largest statues in Asia) rounded out the day. Another neat stop of note was to the handmade paper factory. Its really more of a large house that has been transformed into a place were paper is still manufactured the old way. Down the street was a place where thangkas (painted wall hangings) were being produced.

A few more stops tomorrow and Friday and my week will be complete. I am running into tourist groups in the streets and visitors from all over the world are stopping by the headquarters. I remember leaving for Bumthang 3 months ago wondering what it would be like to be on the other end of this trip… I never imagined it would feel like this.

Life is something glorious, because in this life we can awaken to who we truly are. – Tibetan Book of Living and Dying

Just Another Dinner

2010-03-05T15:20:00.001+06:00

One of the ladies who works in the WWF Bhutan office approached me on Thursday and invited me to an office dinner on Friday night. She said she would arrange for a driver to pick me up from the hotel around 6:30 and we would head over to the Golf Country Club Restaurant. I had been to a few dinners before when in Thimphu, so I was expecting some drinks, the office gathered around telling stories, and a simple dinner. When I walked around the corner from the parking lot I had a feeling this was going to be a little different.

On the back patio of the restaurant was a huge bonfire, tables and chairs for 20, and the royal dancers were getting ready to begin their performance. I quickly found a familiar face and was then introduced to some Bhutanese girls in their 20’s who had been studying in the United States and were back visiting with their boss. That answered my question about who the other white-face at the party belonged to. Shortly after 7:00 things got interesting as a large group of caucasians came around the corner. They were donors here with WWF visiting Bhutan for the first time. I made small talk with a few of them and found some were even from the Bay Area (such a small world).

WWF Bhutan’s Country Representative called me over to meet a few people he was speaking with. He has done this before because they enjoy the fact they have an intern and I had become somewhat of a novelty to the Bhutanese. Since he was standing with some foreigners I was, however, instantly nervous. CR introduced us by first names only and left to mingle. I fielded the usual questions: “How long have you been here?“, ”What are you doing while here? ,“Have you enjoyed your time so far?”, and then asked them the same ones. Apparently I was the only one not informed of who was coming to the dinner party. Unbeknownst to me I had been shooting the breeze with a member of the governing board of the WWF US and its former Vice-President (a man who currently runs the Bhutan Foundation). I instantly blushed, but that went unnoticed since I was saved by the arrival of the former Prime Minister of Bhutan.

This was no normal gathering… we were entertaining some of the highest people in the WWF organization. I also met the cousin of the founder of the WWF and a safari leader from Kenya looking to expand into Bhutan. Needless to say, I was bouncing off walls when I got back to the hotel!

Lost in Translation

2010-02-26T09:44:00.004+06:00

America - Bhutan

Do you have plans tonight? - What is your program?

I will come and get you at 7. - I will pick you at 7.

Hi. This is Kimi. (phone) - Hello. I am Kimi.

We will go to Thimphu Thursday. - On Thursday we will move to Thimphu.

We will stay in Ura for one night. - For one night we will halt in Ura.

Can you move that box? - That box needs to be shifted.

What would you like to eat? - What will you take for dinner?

Other language quirks

You do not say good-bye on the phone, simply hang-up at the end of the conversation.

Laso or la is similar to ok and said many times by the listener.

There is no "tonight," rather "today evening."

When someone is leaving for a trip you say "safe journey."

Mahakala

2010-02-25T10:26:00.001+06:00

The main dance of the festival was the one I had been the most excited to see. Buddhism has many rituals, stories, and superstitions. While all are entertaining and teach a different lesson, only one has gotten my attention time and time again. For some reason I have held onto it as the epitome of what this trip has meant to me and how it has made me view the world differently.

Guru Rinpoche is believed to be the second Buddha and to have been born from lotus petals. He is the most revered in the Eastern Himalayas because he is thought to have brought the teachings to the region. One of his powers was to manifest into different beings in order to carry out his religious duties. The main duty was forcing demons out of the villages and converting those who were poisoning the people with their disbelief.

One of these deities is known as Mahakala and he is called upon for protection. He may appear in different colors depending on the task and who has invoked him. The large dance contains up to 8 representations of Mahakala as he performs dances to drum beats and drives out demons. All the colors are represented during the performance and the wooden masks are carved with faces in a grimace and a skull crown.

My “favorite” is the blue form of the deity. He is painted at the entrance of almost all the dzongs and is depicted standing on two demons. He is called upon to stamp out ignorance and negativity at the beginning of one’s journey, whether it be literal or figurative.

If one speaks and acts with a pure mind void of negativity and ignorance, then happiness follows as one’s shadow that never leaves.

Punakha Festival

2010-02-25T10:21:00.002+06:00

Punakha’s festival is the first of the season and is one of the most well attended tsechus in the country. It is held in Punakha dzong which was constructed in 1637. The temple is also the summer home for the highest ranking monks. The Je Khenpo (the head of the monk body) begins the celebration and the festival is preceded by a dromche (ritual cleansing) that lasts for 5 days.

I jumped in a taxi from Thimphu to Wangdi and then had to catch another one to take me down into the Punakha valley. The majority of the hotels were booked with tourists and other native Bhutanese who had come in to town for the festival. Not much else occurs here during the year and the dzong typically only attracts day visitors passing from west to east.

There were a couple of problems with this trip, but I had come to expect them. The first was when we got stopped at the immigration check-point and I realized I didn’t bring my route pass. To travel between the different dzongkhags (districts), a government issued permit is required. I had brought my permits to visit the dzong, but the other was with Pema (my WWF driver). Luckily we were able to have a copy of it faxed from WWF and the guards let me through. The second was when I found my hotel my reservation hadn’t been recorded and the only rooms available were for 3 people and were all I could take. This also mean triple the cost, but it came with a tv so I was able to watch the USA route Finland to get the gold medal game.

I was able to get a taxi the following morning and my entry into the dzong was very easy. I was surprised at how many Bhutanese were there. It was strange to see the tourists mixed in and the bewildered and somewhat frightened facial expressions they wore made me laugh. Not laugh at them, but rather it made me realize that must have been exactly what I looked like 3 months ago.

Yogins at the Punakha Tscehu

2010-02-25T09:49:00.000+06:00

Back in Thimphu

2010-02-23T00:03:00.000+06:00

I safely returned to Thimphu on Friday the 19th. It is strange to be living in a hotel again... a complete 180 from how life was in Bumthang.

Bhutan is celebrating the King's 30th birthday this week, so all the offices are closed until the 24th. Saturday there was a celebration put on by the different schools in the city, but the King was in a different dzongkhag. A few days off to catch up on sleep, family chats, and get reacquainted with the city has been great.

From here I will go to Punakha on the morning of the 24th for the first festival of the year. The arrival of the festival season also means the arrival of tourists. I have seen many more foreigners walking around town and stores are open later than the first time I was here. This short trip puts work off for another week and then it will be 3 weeks of projects before boarding the planes for home!

I was able to Skype with Mom and Aunt Barbara yesterday while watching the USA beat Canada in the Olympic Games... how different from Bumthang!

Kadinche Bumthang...

2010-02-17T12:09:00.002+06:00

Another change in plans and I am leaving Bumthang three days earlier than planned. I'm a little bummed by this since we planned a farewell picnic with the entire staff for Saturday, but my vehicle arrives on Thursday and we head out on Friday.

I can't believe I am saying goodbye to everyone here already. It seems like just yesterday I was stumbling about not knowing who I could talk to, how to communicate to buy food, or where anything was. While every step of this trip has introduced me to something knew and helped a new piece of the puzzle of who I am fall into place, Bumthang will always be the "it" place for me. The people have been more welcoming and accepting than I ever could have imagined. If they were able to learn half as much from me as I have from them, my job will be well done.

It was here, in my solitude, I read the books that opened the doors to the best parts of me. It was here I saw firsthand the loving kindness and compassion all Buddhists speak of. It was here I am leaving all the negativity and ignorance of the shadows of my past that have so long haunted me. So this chapter of the story is done. Much more is to be written for sure, but my life has forever been changed, my heart completely touched by the beauty that lives in the people and environments of Bumthang. Kadinche (Thank you)

I saw that it was better to be true than to be strong... I was saved and I had won my freedom. This freedom which I shall never lose has given me the rare joy of loving. A new and splendid life has opened before me.

Celebrating the New Year

2010-02-14T09:30:00.001+06:00

February 14, 2010 marked the turning of the Chinese calendar and dropped us into the Iron Year of the Tiger. Just about every store was locked up and the merchants were away celebrating with their families. I had been lucky enough to earn an invitation to a family picnic with one of the rangers, Rinzin. His wife, their 2 sons, another family of friends, and DS Rai and his wife were all gathering in the park to celebrate. We totaled about 15 people and enjoyed the sunshine and company.

I was surprised at DS Rai as his fun-loving side came out and the serious boss he is at the office faded away. We sat around the blanket snacking on Bhutanese crackers and rice fried chips underneath the shade of Blue Pine trees. He was full of stories from his recent trip to America and was anxious to trade notes with me. He absolutely fell in love with San Francisco! Most of the adults drank ara or beer, but I was still feeling the effects of the previous night on the town and was content with water or tea. The kids were off playing games and wandering through the forest. Strange how some things between the two cultures can be so similar.

DS Rai introduced some games he learned at the leadership conference and everyone was laughing and playing. We settled down again for lunch around 2:00 and little girls were again dancing for our entertainment. It was an unexpectedly calm and relaxing day… very much what I needed. The sun was even shining enough for me to get the beginnings of a sunburn! How warm it seemed when it couldn’t have even been above 60 degrees.

The sun drifted behind the mountains and a brisk wind picked up signaling our time to go. I have become much less nervous and self-conscious since being here, so when DS Rai asked me to supply the closing song for the picnic, it took no prodding for me to jump up. So for the second time, I arranged a circle of Bhutanese and taught them the hokey-pokey. I couldn’t help the smile that crept across my face on the ride home…

Turning 26 in Bhutan...

2010-02-13T09:28:00.001+06:00

Saturday morning came early as usual, but since it was my birthday the normal routine of housekeeping and trying to catch up on sleep was scrapped. I sipped hot chocolate and ate corn flakes next to my heater reading a James Patterson book for probably the sixth time. A surprise came at 10:15 when Mom and Dad called to wish me happy birthday. I didn’t realize how much I wanted to hear someone say those words and it made it seem more real. It had been easy to let Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s to slip by on the calendar… those day aren’t celebrated by anyone here. Birthdays are different though. Everyone has them, everyone celebrates them.

The call got me going and I was up and out the door before 11:00. My plan was to walk to town and pick up some souvenirs… spend a little of the money I have been so protective of since I got here. What better way to spend my birthday than getting myself a birthday present? Unfortunately the Handicraft Emporium was closed since the family went out of town to celebrate the New Year on Sunday. I wandered into the market and picked up some grapes and a Sprite for a bit of a treat.

My walk home was shortened when Rinzin saw me walking and offered a ride the rest of the way. After a quick text message to Kinga to confirm our plans for the evening, I took a Saturday afternoon nap. I splurged on buying lunch instead of cooking… red rice, potatoes with chili and cheese, spinach soup and a Coke cost me 95 ngultrum (just over $2).

At 6:00 on the dot Gyeltshen and Kinga arrived to take me out for my birthday. Gyeltshen even brought me a bottle of rose-colored ara! We drove up the road and picked up some more foresters to come to town. Our little posse of 7 was excited and anxious to have some fun. The next stop was at the snooker bar Kinga, Gyeltshen and I had been to before. The actual bar isn’t connected to the snooker room so when we went in we were mostly unnoticed. Once the game started, that changed. One of the waiters mentioned to someone in the bar that not only was there an American playing snooker in the other room, but it was a girl and she was holding her own against the boys! Our group of 7 quickly grew to almost 20 and all the Bhutanese men were rooting for me. It was hysterical as they cheered when I made a shot, groaned when I missed one, and incessantly taunted Kinga and Gyeltshen. We passed around the ara bottled, drank a few beers, and laughed through the whole game. I thought the windows were going to crack for sure at the uproar that came from the locals when I made the winning shot!

Kinga has been talking up his singing abilities since our first trip to Ura so we headed to a dance club. They convinced me to get up on the stage and learn a Bhutanese dance with the in-house dancers, we convinced Kinga to show off his singing skills, and the evening closed with all 7 of us on stage dancing to an English song. All in all, not a bad way to spend a birthday, foreign country or not. My 26^th birthday will definitely not be forgotten… I mean how often will I have a group of Bhutanese men attempt to sing Happy Birthday to me?

Winding Down in Bumthang

2010-02-12T16:58:00.000+06:00

Winding down my last full week in Bumthang seems like a strange thing to say. But next week is shortened by Losar (Chinese New Year) as we have Monday off. I head back to Thimphu on the 24th, but will stop for a few days in Punakha for the first big festival of the year. I leave this tiny Himalayan country in 37 days...

I can't help but reflect on what I have been able to see and do. I've really "seen" Bhutan. I know there is more for me to do here, but leaving Bumthang and resettling into Hotel living will feel more like a vacation than working for the betterment of the environment. This week I was able to visit with the foresters who have taken me in. One of the younger ones, Choki, just welcomed his first child. We went to meet his daughter and getting to hold her was exactly like holding the newborns in the family back home. I have done the "touristy" things, but my favorite memories are, by far, the intimate experiences with the real people of Bhutan.

This weekend will be spent shopping, celebrating, and creating more wonderful memories in Bumthang...

Taking the Bad with the Good

2010-02-08T09:32:00.000+06:00

When I started this adventure just about 100 days ago, it was hard to contain my excitement. I had no idea what people I would meet, what things I would see, what kind of projects I would work on or how I would live. Lurking under the surface were the memories of some emotional nights I spent in Africa and some of the disappointments that came out of those four weeks in Uganda. Was this trip destined to be the same? Had I bitten off more than I could chew signing a contract to spend four months away from life as I knew it?

The timing of the trip came at an interesting point in my life. I was still finding myself after floundering for a few years and as far as I had come, the chance to step away from it all and spend some quality time with myself was as big a draw as the actual trip itself. I knew no matter what, I had family and friends to back me up, keep pushing me, and be there to welcome me home.

As much as I didn’t want to think about it, I knew there would will bad days along the way. The first big one hit this past week and I am quite surprised it took this long in the trip to slip up… but hey, we are all works in progress right? Luckily I was able to track down Mom through the internet and a phone call Arin was will to place. I guess all I needed was a familiar face, voice, and some stories from home so I could feel connected again. An hour later we signed off and I got back to life in Bhutan.

Still in a dismal mood Friday evening and Saturday, I stayed in the apartment and slept most of the time. Once in college on a particularly crappy day I had called the house to vent to Mom, but she wasn’t home and Dad asked if everything was okay. During that conversation he said something I have never forgotten, and if you know my Dad you know how perfectly it fits his personality… its a lesson, but its going to make you chuckle. He told me, “Scratch your butt and get glad!” I found myself saying those words Sunday morning and pulled myself into action.

I can’t tell you how much better I felt after getting out, walking to town, finding grapes (no idea where they grow them) and feeling the wind blow against my face on the bridge over the river. It was like those flapping prayer flags took the demons and scattered on the breeze.

Another lesson learned: There are always going to be the bad days, it’s the price you pay for the good. The thing that’s the true test of self is how you get through them and if you can come out better off on the other side.

Bhutanese Cuisine

2010-02-05T09:35:00.001+06:00

This is to give a little glimpse into what food looks like in Bhutan. This was the spread prepared at the puja last week. There were many other dishes served to the rest of the group that contained pork, yak, or beef. The meat dishes all contained big red chilies and turnip leaves usually. The cheese is typically a melted version of dried yak cheese or processed cheese bought in the larger towns. Dal is a legume and chili porridge. Yes, its all hot!

A Blessed Day... Literally

2010-01-29T13:45:00.001+06:00

Over drinks on Thursday night Kinga’s friend Rinzin mentioned they had been having some Himalayan black bear sightings near the village of Bjeezum, just west of Trongsa. When they all saw me perk up at the mention of wildlife, changes to our program for Friday were quickly made. We would scrap the tour of Trongsa Dzong in the morning and go looking for the black bears!

As we got set to leave in the morning it was suggested we stop at the main prayer wheel and stock up on oranges for the hike; no one knew how long it would take to find a bear. Chensho even gave us a liter of ara in case it got too cold and we needed to warm up. When Gyalsten parked the taxi in front of the immigration outpost, Kinga noticed all the police had abandoned the building and were gathered around a small car loaded with luggage that was headed east to Bumthang.

I got my camera ready, loaded my pockets with oranges and was emptying my camera bag of the books and things we wouldn’t need when Kinga hurriedly called out to me. Apparently the car’s passenger was none other than the reincarnation of Pema Lingpa (read some of his story here). As a man who is believed to have attained enlightenment and discovered treasures from Membartsho, this was truly a holy man in the Buddhist religion. He gave each of us a card with a blessing written on it. There were seven of us and we stood in a line, each taking a turn to bow in front of him and have him give a personal blessing by placing a holy box on our heads. Our day hadn’t even started and it was already a raging success.

Kinga and Gylasten had an extra spring in their step as we crossed the bridge adorned with prayer flags to the remote village of Bjeezum. We asked every one we saw if any sightings had been made that day, but no one had seen anything. We walked for two hours, occasionally stopping at points that were particularly prime bear habitat, but apparently our luck had been used up in coming across Pema Lingpa. Our trek had taken us along the Wangdi Chuu and among forests of conifers. The day was clear and bright and I quickly was shedding layers. A few times we stopped, thinking we saw a bear, but it turned out to be a shadow or rock.

With many apologies the guys said we should head back and drive a little further up the highway to a different farm road. I was disappointed but couldn’t help but still be in awe that I was meandering in the alpine forests of rural Bhutan looking for Himalayan black bears. When we returned to the outpost, the police were excitedly speaking to Kinga in dzongkha. A black bear had spent the past few hours sunning and foraging on the slopes just behind the outpost. Of course it had!

The men had watched it lumber over a rocky outcrop but the place was visible from the riverbank and we were welcome to climb down to wait. Seeing as we had been walking for 3 ½ hours I wasn’t about to say no to a short rest. Plus, Kinga was determined to find a bear. So we sat in the blazing sunshine, staring at the side of a mountain. A police officer, a villager, and three school age boys joined in our vigil. It took about 45 minutes, but our black bear finally made his long overdue appearance.

The long walk, the slight frustration, and the build up of anticipation finally culminated in a male, juvenile black bear snacking on grapes across the river. I had tears in my eyes as I sat with my feet dangling above the river rushing by, sharing oranges with the young boys, toasting my guides with the ara, and watching a wild Himalayan black bear. It had turned out to be a blessed day in every way.

Three Little Girls

2010-01-27T13:36:00.001+06:00

Three little girls ended up taking a keen interest in the white lady among them. They had not yet learned English and couldn’t communicate with me, but they continued to inch closer and closer. When one of Gyaltsen’s sisters sat with me and began talking they clambered over and sat on her lap.

After awhile someone suggested they sing a few songs and do some dances for the older people still awake. That was all the prodding they needed and for the next 45 minutes or so I was treated to dances, songs, and chants. The youngest is 5 and she knew every move and word just like the older girls. When I brought out my camera they were overcome with giggles but didn’t miss a step. Some of the songs and movements I recognized from the festivals I had attended, but there is something quite different when they are performed on the spot by young girls, purely for their own enjoyment.

They sang by light of a kerosene lamp until we all drained our glasses of ara and scattered throughout the house to find an empty mattress and a few blankets to huddle under. I was quite lucky to get to have an experience that cannot be found on any tourist itinerary.

The Puja

2010-01-27T12:36:00.000+06:00

A Bhutanese puja can last anywhere from a few hours to a few days. The one being held at Gyaltsen’s parents home in Isa was due to last 12 hours. It begins early in the morning when the monks arrive and all offerings are brought into the altar room. Here the monks (or in some cases nuns) will sit and chant readings from a prayer books. They also play drums, horns, and cymbals to ward off evil deities. Every house has an altar room that has a shrine to Buddha and at least five small goblets that are filled with water each morning. There are hand painted wall hangings called thangkas, seven butter lamps, rice or barley flour sculptures, and usually some form of musical instrument.

My drive from Thimphu took just over six hours due to road construction. I was able to meet up with Kinga and Gyaltsen at 3:15 in the main courtyard of Trongsa where we picked up offerings of beer and eggs for the hosts. We then drove for another hour to the home where the puja was being held. The village was very remote and they hope to have electricity by August.

From the street below I could hear the sounds of drums, the mumblings of monks, and see the smoke from the burning juniper. Straight up the hillside 20 minutes later, we were at the doorstep. Our gifts were gratefully accepted and Gyaltsen’s parents, who had been aware an American would be joining them for the occasion, greeted us. They had never received a foreigner in their home and this was a big event for them.

Since my arrival had not been confirmed due to obligations in Thimphu, the others attending the puja had not been told I would be there so it wouldn’t disappoint them if I couldn’t make the trip. This time the room literally did stop when I walked in. The only sounds were from the altar room… not a whisper from the 30 or so family and friends sitting in the living room who had previously been engrossed in conversation. Small children stared, old men and women unconsciously stopped spinning their prayer wheels, and even the kittens sat still.

The silence was finally broken when Kinga introduced me and when I said “kuzuzangpo” it seemed to break the ice. Against my wishes, we were given the seats for the Chief Guests and served tea. Conversations resumed, traditional snacks were passed around, and the children began playing. Gyaltsen’s parents gave me permission to enter their altar room during the ritual and also take a few photographs.

It was another surreal moment to be in a Bhutanese altar room at dusk, lit only by candles, sitting among eight monks, listening to them chant, and ward off evil spirits. Again I found myself thinking, “who does this really happen to?” I couldn’t help but close my eyes, lean my head back on the wall, and breathe in the serenity.

A Long Drive

2010-01-24T14:11:00.000+06:00

The trip to Thimphu began at 9:30 (an hour later than planned) and I didn’t crawl into the queen size bed at Hotel Pedling until 10:00 that night. Karma Tempa (the WCP accountant) was driving with another member of the tourism industry to Punakha and he would give me a lift until that point. From there it would be another two hours by taxi to reach Thimphu. His wife and infant daughter were also going to Thimphu, so we would need a taxi that had room for two.

We stopped frequently and the drive went slow since Karma wasn’t as confident behind the wheel as the professional drivers and the road was icy. We took a break for lunch along the roadside and enjoyed rice with carrot or beef curry (I opted for the vegetarian choice) with some gorgeous views. Once we reached Punakha it took almost 90 minutes to secure a taxi that could take two more adults. The little girl would ride on her mother’s lap, just as she had done for the previous six hours of the trip.

It took every ounce of patience and every fiber in my newly-learned meditating body to survive that drive without nerves fraying to the bitter end. We were in a small Hyundai with five adults and one unhappy infant. The monk in the front seat mumbled prayers for two hours and the driver had somehow decided 1990’s rap would be the perfect choice for navigating winding roads in the darkness.

All the tension washed away when I settled into a hot bath and was able to get completely clean for the first time in months (though I did feel bad for the maids who would have the job of scrubbing the ring of dirt the next morning). For the next two days I was shuttled between the office of the videographer, WWF headquarters, and the hotel. I was able to meet up with Jan and Ute one final time for dinner Tuesday night and the highlight of the short vacation to luxury was the long awaited arrival of Mom and Dad’s package.

Monday evening was spent curled up in a brand new Snuggie, snacking on walnuts, and watching ESPN… it was almost like being home.

Self-Sustaining

2010-01-22T12:24:00.001+06:00

In rural Bhutan it is crucial that one be able to provide for themselves. This includes clothing, housewares, food, and drinks. Villages typically will have at least one craftsman for each vocation in order to limit trips to the main town, which can be more than a day’s walk away.

The majority of the homes we visited had at least one loom for weaving kiras, ghos, blankets, or scarves. The women were the ones who most commonly operated the looms and various types were available. Some consist of two sticks placed between logs and the simple pattern is woven from yak yarn. Others were much more complicated and had foot pedals, many colors, and metal tools used to make the most intricate designs. Young girls are taught the skill from an early age.

Bamboo weaving is conducted by both men and women for many different applications. It is not uncommon to drive over bamboo sticks laid in the road by weavers to help flatten and soften the fibers. Baskets, floor mats, fencing, and room dividers are all created from different types of bamboo weavings.

These two pastimes are typically performed in the evening after work in the fields, school, or the paid jobs are completed. The workday ends a 4:00pm in the winter and dinner is served at 7:00, leaving two hours of light to work.

The Plan for the Week

2010-01-22T10:57:00.003+06:00

Things are really starting to get super busy for me as I am getting engrossed in the documentary work and Kinga is continuing to take me all over Bhutan!

Sunday the 24th I will head from Bumthang to Thimphu where I will check in a hotel for a few days! (A hotel means a real shower and I couldn't be more excited about that!) On the 25th and the morning of the 26th I will be working with our videographer going over footage, concepts, and determining if we need to go out into the field again. The afternoon of the 26th I will catch a bus for the trip to Trongsa where I will meet up with Kinga to go see the watch tower, a couple waterfalls and a few more goembas. I will get to witness the annual puja of Gyaltsen's house on the 27th which I am very happy about. We will head back to Bumthang on the 29th just in time for the weekend!

Lots to do and lots to see in the next 7 days! This photo was taken on the 20th when we dropped in on some of Kinga's friends on our way home from Nasgephel (we had given them a ride earlier in the day so they were expecting us). The mother of the house was trying to teach me how to use her prayer wheel, but I couldn't get right. You can see her laughing to the left.

Animals That AREN'T Red Pandas

2010-01-21T11:55:00.003+06:00

Blood Pheasant, Barking Deer (muntjac), &; Black Necked Cranes

This post will continually be updated with critters we have found during our hunt for the red panda. Kinga has made it his mission we find one... he has everyone he knows looking and they will call him when/if they see one at which point we jump on the bike and go find it!

A Few of Me

2010-01-21T11:39:00.002+06:00

Because Mom likes pictures with me in them and Kinga loves to take them!

Photo1: Some of the boys were willing to let me try archery with their traditional bows.

Photo 2: After the 20 minute climb straight up the hillside to a remote goemba.

Photo 3: Sitting with a monk on a vacation from the monastery to visit his family.

Yak Cheese Day

2010-01-21T00:09:00.000+06:00

January 21^st was spent among the rural people of Chokhar and has become one of the special days on this trip. Kinga declared it “Yak Cheese Day” because we needed some way to commemorate the day and it was the first time I tried yak cheese.

It started with a drive to the remote villages in Nagsephel (where the Nomads’ Festival was held), along which we were lucky enough to spot two different families of Black Necked- Cranes. I was able to get closer to them than I previously had at Phobjika and it was a rare sight for them to be in the Bumthang valley this late in the season. This made three straight trips away from the office with wild animal sightings… we were on a roll!

We got to the main village (which consists of about 5 large buildings) just before lunch, but since one of the buildings was the home of one of WCP’s hospitality trainees, they were ready for us. The women welcomed us into their living room and the three of us (Kinga, Gyaltsen, and myself) took our seats on carpets on the floor. We were served tea and biscuits while Kinga put in an order for lunch. At least one dish would be prepared light on the chilies and with no meat for me.

Since it would be awhile Kinga took me on a tour of a typical village in Bhutan. There was an old prayer wheel spun by a small tributary, a chorten for the religious to make their offerings, little boys practicing khuru under an old Cyprus tree, and some women weaving while chattering away in dzongkha.

When we turned one corner we came upon an old wooden shack with smoke billowing out. A toothless old woman was inside clanging pots and working feverishly to keep the fire smoldering while mashing something in another metal pan. This was where they made ara. Ara is a strong alcohol that is the pride of every house and made of rice, barley, corn, or wheat. It is distilled, brewed, and filtered in the same small building and burns going down like nothing I have tasted before.

After lunch we hiked up to the main temple in the village. It didn’t look too tough from below, but I wasn’t aware we would literally be climbing straight up the side of the hill. Some times we were going hand over hand like a ladder… much more vertical than horizontal. Since we were all off different skill levels in hiking, we each were on our own which made the chanting, drumbeats, horn blowing, and guitar strumming that much more surreal.

The view was definitely worth the climb and one wouldn’t guess how sacred of a place the temple was. Apparently it was built decades ago and had been knocked down by a multitude of natural disasters. The last one happened about 25 years ago and during the reconstruction, one of the builders discovered a rock with Guru Rinpoche’s (the second Buddha) footprint on it. The stone was placed inside the temple and since then, no harm has come to the building.

We trekked back down and stopped at some houses along the way. Every house asked us in for a cup of tea or ara. They were so welcoming and friendly and expected nothing in return. It was on our second stop when we were served yak cheese with the ara, that Kinga decided it would be Yak Cheese Day. I was given the chance to sit a loom, play archery, chat with a monk, and make an attempt to spin a prayer wheel. We also saw many more places bearing Guru Rinpoche’s footprint and the elders were the most

excited to show off these landmarks to a foreigner.

We didn’t spend the day in fancy hotels or restaurants. We weren’t pampered or following any kind of planned itinerary. We were playing it by ear and I couldn’t have asked for a better way to spend a day. I saw how the people of Bhutan live every day and was the recipient of their pure generosity. In a country thought to be so poor… their spirits couldn’t be more rich.

Membartsho

2010-01-19T10:55:00.004+06:00

The first stop on Tuesday was Membartsho (The Burning Lake). It was about a 30 minute trip East of Jakar and then a quick hike down the gorge. The path was only 4 feet wide in places and the other side was a steep ravine cut into the mountains by the Tang Chuu (River). There must have been hundreds, if not thousands of prayer flags strewn across the bridge and in the trees. The 17^th was a National Day of Offering, so many were brand new and offered a stark contrast to flags that had been hung years before and were not faded and tattered.

The history of the spot goes back to the 15th century when Pema Lingpa is said to have jumped into the lake and retrieved treasures of the Buddhist religion. This occurred twice after a meditation session directed him to a spot where ”the river forms a large pool that looks like a lake.” The second jump for treasures was witnessed by many people and is how the spot came to be known to the non-enlightened. It is believed that those who have reached true enlightenment can look into the pool and see the golden palace beneath the waters.

While none of us saw anything in the waters, the place is truly serene. One can stand below the bridge and sit among the boulders that line the river. It is away from any main roads so the only sounds one hears are the rustling of the prayer flags in the wind and the constant rush of the river.

Learning How to Bend

2010-01-19T04:10:00.004+06:00

I am beginning to think there may be no actual point in making any kind of plans, because they are just going to keep changing! Another thing to learn.. one must be flexible! The trip to Ura and Thrumshingla National Park finally took place on Monday morning. It was planned that we would stay overnight and go into the forest with a ranger who had a little more experience in the area than Kinga. Upon our arrival we found the Chief Forestry Officer and the rangers were all gone to a meeting. Alas we only spent one day in Ura but were able to visit the monastery there and did some hiking along some roadside trails.

Kinga informed me that if I want to see animals I need to get to Royal Manas National Park. That park is about 10 hours away and is on the border with northern India... needless to say, I am working on it.

He wanted me to be happy though so he planned a cultural excursion for Tuesday and another long hike Thursday through Friday. Tuesday was great! We saw some new places including Membartsho, Mani Dungkhor, Chakhar Lhakhang, and Namke Nyingpo Goemba (I am standing on the courtyard of this monastery in the first photo). Kinga also insisted we visit some places I had found on my own because we could go inside and he could tell me more about them. This was great advice because it makes a huge difference once you get through the doors! So back I went to Wangdichholing Dzong, Jampey Lhakhang, and Kurjey Lhakhang.

It was a busy day and I will put up a few posts on some of the individual highlights from the tour.

Ura for the Day

2010-01-18T03:35:00.000+06:00

The trip to Ura began at 9:30 on Monday morning. Kinga, who is a forester with WCP, had arranged for a taxi to take us on the 58km (36 miles) journey. The pavement is as wide as a single lane road back home, but divided into 2 lanes. When one comes upon a car going the opposite direction, one of the cars has to pull off the road to pass.

The road has many tight turns as it climbs to 11,200 feet to the main town of Ura. Most of the waterfalls were frozen and snow was still on the ground from the overnight storm. We stopped two or three times at various points overlooking the valleys. The mountains are all around us and become a faint blue the farther south you look. Turning north, one can see the valley of the remote villages we just passed through and the snow caps of Bhutan’s highest points peek over the lower ranges of the Himalayas; all of it is covered in forest. Bhutan currently boasts a 70% forest cover rate and the constitution states it must maintain a minimum of 60% at all times, thus insuring the environment and the animals in it.

Because the Chief Forestry Officer for Thurmshingla Park was not in for the next few days we were only able to stay for the day. Our first stop was for a quick lunch in the one “hotel” in the town… potatoes and rice! Next we visited the Rinchen Jugney Lhakhang which was built in 1308. Though from outside the building is rundown and looks to be in need of repair, it houses three enormous bronze statues of the Buddha and Guru Rinpoche. (Pictures are not permitted inside monasteries.)

From there we walked 3 miles into the forest and looked for any animals. We found barking deer, blood pheasant, and Himalayan monals… no red panda though. On the drive home we came across a government labor camp where men were winding down their day playing khuru and let me have a chance to throw the darts. It was a nice way to spend a day out of the office.

Quick Update!

2010-01-15T16:28:00.000+06:00

Sunday marks the official halfway point of the trip and I can say it has been amazing so far! It also feels like I have been gone for more than two months!

I am heading to Thrumshingla National Park (about an hour East of Bumthang) with one of the WCP rangers to see if I can find one of the red pandas I so desperately want to see. We will head out around 9:30 Sunday morning and head back Tuesday morning. There is also a ton of cultural points of interest in Ura as well, so the trip will be great for sure!

Just keeping everyone updated on my day to day going-ons. I beat my first battle with food poisoning last night as well.. not so fun.

Tid Bits of Perspective

2010-01-12T09:44:00.000+06:00

These are a few little pieces of information that I just have to share, but don’t really make up an entire post on their own.

1. 1. Mornings when I wake up to a frozen ground are days destined to be a little more difficult. Typically that means the water is still frozen, so I will have none flowing through the pipes until 10 or so.

2. 2. The highest count of bug bites peaked last week at around 75, but I think I now have a control on it with precisely placed insect repellant sprays each night. So thankful I brought Calamine Lotion!

3. 3. Last weekend’s excursion to go find the red pandas was put on hold because we couldn’t drive to the trail heads 50km away… the town ran out of gas.

4. 4. Every morning I wake up to some form of livestock grazing in front of the apartment. Usually cows, but there have been horses and donkeys. They are also ever present outside my office windows.

Looking forward to expected snowfall on Thursday!!

Expect the Unexpected

2010-01-03T09:48:00.004+06:00

To say Saturday was my least favorite day on this trip so far would be a massive understatement. After having spent time with more locals and their helpful corrections to my guidebook, I had chosen a few dzongs and other holy places I wanted to visit this weekend. I figured I would do this on Saturday and save the laundry and house cleaning for Sunday. My body and immune system apparently had other plans. I had felt a sinus infection coming on and was doing my best to fight it with Vitamin C, warm water, and rest. My need to conserve the few medications I brought with me is quite high.

The cold days, long nights, early mornings, and freezing temperatures of the past seven days at the Festival finally caught up with me and I was down for the count. So instead of walking for hours in the remote villages of Bumthang I was on the floor, in my sleeping bag, next to the heater only moving to get more water to take Sudafed. I slept for 14 hours and went through an entire roll of tissues. Of course this was the first clear day since the snowfall on the 31^st. I was not about to waste another day when Sunday morning came with bright sunlight and clear skies.

Thankfully I felt much better and I knew I would be able to manage a short trip. About 45 minutes up the road I found Jamphey Lhakhang; a temple whose main stupa was constructed in 659. Believed to be the oldest temple in Bhutan, it is considered a sacred site and the most celebrated of Bhutan’s festivals is held here in October. I circumambulated the temple three times (maintaining the Buddhist tradition) and oddly followed three elderly women. The morning had leant itself already to be a day that I would need guidance, since I was following memorized directions and my propensity for getting lost is higher than most. On my way out the front gate I passed three elderly monks repairing prayer wheels... again I saw this may be some kind of special day.

I took a dirt trail farther into the village and after crossing a half frozen stream, I came upon a huge white monastery and newly constructed temple. I later learned this houses one of the many body prints Guru Rinpoche is believed to have left in Bumthang during his periods of meditation. On my way home I decided I wasn’t quite ready to be done walking. I thought a stop in the Handicrafts Emporium would make a good diversion and only added another 30 minutes to the walk anyway.

I came upon some men playing archery on a pitch in the Wangdechholing Dzong’s entryway. Some young men were perched on a stonewall on the road above the game enjoying the festivities so I sat to join them. I had brought an apple with me and picked up a bottle of water along the way and this seemed as good a place as any to stop and take a breather. The players were much better than most I had seen before so I went down closer to take some photos and videos of the fun celebrations the teams do when an arrow hits the target.

Once I had my fill I turned to go back up the road home. Chorten (a man I knew as a friend of Administrative Assistant at the office) asked me if I would please stay for lunch as a guest of the Dasho playing in match. I said sure, assuming the Dasho was the local gup of Chakhar. Turned out it was the former governor of Bumthang and now works closely with the King on development projects for the destitute of Bhutan. I ended up spending six hours watching the match, chatting with the players, and just soaking up the experience. They even managed to drag me up to join them in their closing ceremony dances!

I have been told many times the Bhutanese are a happy people and sitting around a fire with them on a bright Sunday afternoon, enjoying their food, sipping their finest whiskey (which is ever present) I couldn’t help but be awed by them. No picture or video would do any of it justice. For this reason I fear my favorite and most cherished moments of Bhutan will not be adequately shared with others. They will reside within my heart and become memories I can’t ever forget.

His companion for the day was another Dasho (Karma) who worked for the Wellness Center (similar to the US’s welfare system) running the census programs. This gentleman formerly worked for the National Parks system and is based in Bumthang currently! What luck! Chorten works for Karma and I now have two people dedicated to seeing that I get to experience all I can in Bumthang before I depart. We are heading for Thrumshingla National Park on Saturday for a day trek!

I can only look back on the weekend and wonder… if I hadn’t gotten so sick on Saturday, I would never have stumbled upon this game. I would have missed this opportunity. Perhaps that one day of misery was a right of passage to earn a day basking in the joyous nature of Bhutanese life and the opening of the door for all my other adventures on weekends in Bhutan? Maybe I’m reading too much Thoreau… maybe I’m looking too deep in things… but maybe I’m just reconnecting with the inner part of me that allows one to be guided along a path. To take each day as it is and live in the moment is truly what the core of the culture is about.

One conversation was had beneath an old tree with Dasho Dorji. Explaining what was at the heart of Buddhism he told me something I have come to take to heart… “The moment we stop to ask ourselves if we are happy, we cease to be so.” Be happy in the moment that is now, for what else is there?

To A Great Weekend

2009-12-28T16:23:00.002+06:00

The Nomads' Festival ran from December 26th-28th at the future site of the head quarters for Wangchuck Centennial Park. There were 90 nomads gathered from 8 different dzongkhags (disttricts). Some traveled for 7 days on foot through the Himalayas to reach the grounds. Goods, wares, and food were packed over the distance with the assistance of Yaks.

It was an amazing thing to be able to witness, contribute to, and take part in. I decided to dive in and take in everything that was offered. I tried many different kinds of Bhutanese dishes, joined in some dances around the campfire, made an honorary Bhutanese by the boss, and even rode a yak!

In these few photos I am posing with some of the nomads who made the journey. The women are from Laya in the Gasa dzongkhags and were the ones who traveled the farthest. The group of men I am standing with are from the Brokpa tribe. The youngman directly to my left was the winner of the wrestling tournament and one of the largest Bhutanese there.

The weekend was exhausting, quite cold, and my throat is still sore from breathing in campfire smoke for the majority of the last three days. I was able to make some new friends, share in the fun with old ones (Jan and Ute), and create amazing memories. All in all, the festival was a monumental success and achieved what it set out to ... "Celebrate the richness of mountain nature and culture."

Handmade Goods

2009-12-27T09:48:00.001+06:00

Festival Day 2

2009-12-27T09:32:00.001+06:00

The second day of the Nomads’ Festival began much different from the first… from the very beginning I had a problem to solve. DS Rai and his sons had stayed at the site in tents the night before. Though I had arranged to get a ride back to Dekiling Saturday evening with his wife, the cold and my tiredness chased me from the mountain earlier. This also took away my ability to arrange a pick-up the next morning with the park driver… bad foresight on my part. Add to that the fact I was to bring a bag of my things to stay overnight and I had quite the conundrum.

We had picked up a hitchhiker or two on the many trips to the heart of Wangchuck Centennial Park and I figured a white person trekking on the dirt path would grab someone’s attention. So finding the inner adventurer that had had the nerve to hitch a ride through Uganda, I grabbed my full pack and began the walk. If, for some reason, I wasn’t able to get a ride, the walk was about 20 miles and I would make it by lunch. Lucky for me I was only about 35 minutes into the trip before some tourists happened by and picked me up. Rob and Nikola turned out to be from Australia and New Zealand and were working for various aspects of social government in Thimphu. (I was able to return the favor of the ride by fixing Rob’s camera, which someone had set to strange settings and were accounting for the odd results he was getting.)

Sunday was more of the same when it came to the program for the festival. More games were played, a local won a weight lifting competition, a pillow fight battle raged for an hour (see the photos), and dancers kept up the performances with an amazing energy. Though Jan and Ute did not return for day 2, many others I had met greeted me and I enjoyed pleasant conversations.

It happened, however, that this would be the day I spent the majority of my time with Baddham, Mano, Robin and Michele. They appeared as interested in me as I was in their culture. Through them I was able to navigate through the food stalls and procure my first (and probably last) ride on a yak. It took awhile for me to warm up to them and more than once it was commented that I was the quietest American any of them had come across. They made sure there was never a dull moment in the day and Baddham wasn’t phased by my incessant questioning of the day-to-day life in Bhutan.

That evening I stayed and watched the night program as many individuals made their way to the stage to perform. Baddham and DS Rai were among the few to brave the mic and I was quite surprised at how well they performed. Towards the end of the evening, even the Chief Guests gathered for a few songs with the nomads. Upon closing the entire group (myself included) danced and chanted around a huge campfire. It became clear that though Baddham was the singer of the family, Mano was the dancer. Try as they might to lead me in dances, I was relieved when Baddham was the first to come with me to the sidelines.

From there we went to a more private setting, where only about 10 people gathered around a smaller fire to share stories and drinks. It was here I learned that I would not be able to stay overnight at the home-stay since it was quite late. After a problem with a truck engine, a shifting of cars, and a long drive home… I fell into bed around 3:45am.

The Opening & Day 1 of the Festival

2009-12-26T09:35:00.003+06:00

The first day of the Nomads’ Festival was an early one for me. DS Rai said he wanted to leave the office no later than 5:15am. The opening ceremonies started at 8:30 and there were still some preparations to be made, not to mention it is about an hour drive. Luck happened to have this festival fall on the 26^th so my early wake up was more enjoyable by a Christmas call from the family back home (though they did have to interrupt Star Trek in HD).

I packed up my camera, put on 5 layers of clothes, and set out into the early morning darkness for the walk to the office. I was a little worried since I was a few minutes behind schedule, but relieved when no one was there when I arrived at 5:08. That relief slowly dwindled away as I saw 5:30 come and go. Then 5:45 came and there was no sign of any one at the office. Just as I was about to call DS Rai a red truck pulled up at 5:52 and the driver told me to come quick. Getting in his car I saw the temperature outside read -14*C (just about 7*F); I had been outside the entire time.

About 15 minutes later I was squeezed in the back of a different truck and heading up to the site with DS Rai, one of his sons, and two of his friends. When we arrived I was completely amazed at everything that had been constructed in the past two weeks! I had just visited 13 days ago and there was nothing! Now fences, stalls, tents, and prayer flags covered the main grounds of Wangchuck Centennial Park. (All of these were made from bamboo or local logs and could be easily removed and recycled after the festival.) I was left to my own devices to wander the area until the opening procession. My eye was caught by the horses and yaks with colored rags braided into their hair and bells around their necks.

Nomads’ were first in the processional line, each playing their own instrument in welcoming. Directly behind them was the Chief Guest, the Minister of Agriculture, Dr. Pema Gyamtsho. Members of Parliament, local government officials, Lamas from surrounding monasteries, and other invited guests brought up the rear of the parade.

After many speeches, the Chief Guest cut the opening day ribbon from the stalls and proceeded to greet every group and spend a few minutes inspecting their goods. As he went around I stood on the other side of the flag boundary taking photos. Many reporters called his name and were asking questions. So you understand my amazement when, after snapping his photo and lowering my camera, he looked at me and said, “You must be Kim.” DS Rai was directly behind him and his eyes were bigger than mine. The Minister and I shook hands and exchanged some greetings and I’m sure a few other words, but I was to amazed to comprehend them. He said he heard I was here helping his country, in his department, and if there was anything I needed, he should be the first to know. On he went to the next stall and I got a nod of approval from my boss.

Saturday continued with cultural dances, traditional wrestling, khuru tournaments and overall celebration; following posts will elaborate more. I was lucky enough to have DS Rai’s sons to help guide me along the way and more will come on them also. Jan and Ute did make it for the day and brought me a Christmas treat of chocolate! The evening was spent with some people I met who worked in the Ministry of Agriculture around a brokhuri sipping ara, water or beer and having song wars. They told stories, jokes, asked me questions and welcomed me into their group. It astonishes me how hospitable and friendly these people all are. My favorite moments of that day were those spent living in the moment with the Bhutanese, feeling completely content and apart of their lives.

Faces of the Festival

2009-12-26T09:24:00.000+06:00

I have been struggling with the best way to write and post about the festival. To write out each day’s events in one post would be incredibly long and I fear some details would be missed, but to space out each thing in its own section would make for many short posts and not a cohesive unit. So I have compromised and decided that a post on the big events of each day overall will suffice and the topics I want to give more detail to will have their own post. I hope this makes sense in the end! Enjoy!

Lesson #1

2009-12-22T16:30:00.001+06:00

I was in the office Tuesday morning checking through emails and catching up with family when DS Rai said he had some people he wanted me to meet. He had mentioned previously his sons were coming to town as they were on break from their studies. I was right! Both of his sons (college age) and two of their classmates had arrived and were anxious to help with the Festival.

Banners were going up, brochures were at the printer and the formal invites had been sent out. They approached me with an idea they had about making formal "badges" for the Festival. I had noticed that people of importantce wear buttons at each event and had been hoping we would be designing one as well. DS Rai told me they had designed the entire thing but weren't sure how to get it to print.

At first, I was honestly a little let down. I was hoping I would be able to create this and already had some ideas. The boys showed me their file and it looked pretty good. There were a few things they couldn't quite figure out so I helped make the adjustments, gave a few suggestions and the badge was created. They were so excited and quite thankful it was so easy to get done.

After they were gone it hit me. I'm going to be leaving here in March, most likely never to come back to Bhutan. Our mission for this park is to get the community involved and excited about conservation. If these boys, from Bumthang get an attachment to this festival and therefore this park, they can keep it going once those of us here to get it started have moved on. Not only did I feel silly and embarassed for feeling letdown about not being able to design this small element, I felt lucky to have helped the local people take something they had as an idea and to turn into product. It may be something small, but it has the power to make a huge impact.

Epiphany #1: I'm not on this journey to leave my mark on Bhutan. I'm on this journey to help Bhutan leave its mark on those who come after me... and most likely, let it leave its mark on me.

Just So You Know..

2009-12-21T18:03:00.000+06:00

Just wanted to make it known, I will be out of the office pretty much until next Monday, the 28th. We have the festival this weekend so you won't see any posts from me until then. No worries... I am perfectly fine! Merry Christmas to you all! I love you!

Out & About

2009-12-19T17:34:00.001+06:00

I had already decided earlier in the week that I wanted to walk to Wangdichholing Dzong. It was listed in the

Lonely Planet Guide as one of the places to see in Bumthang. However, I overestimated the time it would take to walk there and what was supposed to take a few hours took just over one. I wandered around a bit and found the 19th century palace had long been neglected. I was a little disappointed in my self-planned adventure and wanted to do more with my day.

As I turned to head back up to the main road I noticed the Jakar Dzong (built in the 16th century) up on a hill overlooking the valley. I checked my guidebook to make sure it was open to visitors (some are not) and headed that way. It was quite rewarding when I got to the top (256 stairs later) as the main courtyard overlooked the entirety of Chokhor Valley. I walked around for a bit and heard children laughing. Following the sounds through some creaking wooden doors, I came upon young monks playing soccer in one of the courtyards. Most of the dzongs are now used as schools for those pursuing a career in the religion, as well as local government offices.

I took the opposite staircase down to the main part of town because I wasn't quite ready to head home just yet. I hadn't been down to the river so I made my way there and stopped for a snack (an apple, wheat crackers and water).

Some WWF staff in Thimphu had told me there was a Swiss farm in Bumthang and they usually had an assortment of fresh goods for purchase. Well, I found the place and was rewarded with the lovely fresh gouda I am currently nibbling on.. with cut apples of course!

After I came home I discovered I had walked about 10 miles, but I still have no idea the change in elevations. Another sunny Saturday well spent! Now only if we could get this power thing worked out... the winds are wreaking havoc on the lines!

What A Culture..

2009-12-17T09:54:00.003+06:00

After I took my seat in the tent some women appeared and offered all of us tea. I wasn't surprised by this since it appeared we were with some very important people. But then they brought us rice, another round of tea with a biscuit, some 7up, and finally more tea. All evenly spaced throughout the event and it was quite a surprise.

It did feel a little self-indulgent to be sitting in a covered tent, snacking on treats with hundreds of people in front of us on the dirt and recieving nothing. There was no need to worry. Men walked through the crowd and began creating aisles between the audience members. Soon huge baskets of rice and buckets of vegetable damaste appeared. I (along with my new English buddy) was amazed that they were going to feed all these people.. and at no cost. My next thought was more practical.. what will they serve it on? Our selections had come on paper plates, but there were only 20 of us. The audience was prepared and from the pockets in the ghos and kheras bowls materialized in front of every family. We just watched as volunteers walked down each row spooning rice and vegetables into every bowl.

Not a single person went hungry.

A National Holiday!

2009-12-17T09:43:00.002+06:00

I woke up this morning thinking today would be just another day.. crossing my fingers D.S. Rai and the internet would make a triumphant return to the office. Imagine my dismay when I arrived to find the doors locked and no one in the building. Since the arrival of the new Administrative Assistant, this hadn't been happening. Around 9:15
one of the rangers drove by on his motorcycle and noticed me outside the building. Apparently today is a National Holiday in Bhutan; the anniversary of the First King Wangchuck's birth.

I assumed this meant the same thing here as it did back home. All government offices closed, most businesses closed, and every one enjoying a mid-week day off. This all was true, but there was also a huge celebration taking place in the market and I was late to the party! I ran to the apartment, grabbed my camera and jumped on the back of his motorcycle. Upon my arrival I found what had to be the entire town gathered in the market place. Every one wasdressed in kheras (women) or ghos (men). Have you ever walked into a gathering and felt like the entire place stoppedand turned to look at you? I'm sure some still paid attention to the procession and speech, but it sure didn't feel like it!

I had milled around for 30 minutes or so hoping to spot some one from WWF when a government aide appeared at my side, accompanied with a member of the Royal Bhutan Army. He asked me if I was with a tour guide. I said no and that answer surprised him. After I explained to them my reason for being here, they told me I was an invited guest and please join them in the tent. Since I was about 5 people deep from the circle of the events I figured I would follow their lead. I ended up in a tent directly next to the main stage, seated in the front row, with local and national government officials. I met the governor of the city, some of the parliament, the head monks of the local dzong, and the only other white face I had seen since my arrival in Bumthang. She was also a solo traveler, but her guide had arranged her spot.

From here we watched as local schools performed dances and songs, a mask dance, and the final farewell chant. OH, and we met the Princess of Bhutan. All in all.. not the ordinary day I was expecting.

Making It Work

2009-12-15T18:40:00.003+06:00

Plenty of distractions and mishaps in the office have given me ample to time to catch up on some journaling and recounting some of my prior adventures. While this had been the plan all along (to write it all down when there was down time), re-reading Gorillas in the Mist and having Dian Fossey again tell me "its always best to write notes the evening of the day they happened, otherwise they become stale" inspired me to do even more catch-up work. Read when you can.. some days have been sensational!

So far this week has been a complete loss (work-wise) for a few factors. The major one being D.S. Rai is in Thimphu handling "paperwork business" for the festival as well as the fallout from the Himalayan Black Bear incident. Last report was that the bear had moved on to a new range and the cattle were once again safe (no, I do not know if a protective ritual was performed over the weekend or not). Monday wasn't helped by a lack of internet connection which held my assignment email hostage. Good thing there are plenty of books to read at the Head Quarters! Tuesday was even worse as it started with a glimmer of hope. When I arrived in the office the internet was up and running! It held out long enough for me to get to the inbox before the power went out at promptly 9:23am. No power = no computer = no internet and more importantly = NO HEAT!

After staving off completely freezing by jogs up and down the street, I speed-walked home at 4 only to find no electricity there either. That was going to make for one very long, very cold night. In the last few days
the breeze coming down off the glaciers had picked up and at last report we were at an air temperature of 16
degrees.. not factoring in the windchill of course. So I boiled some water, filled the thermos with tea, put
on 3 layers of every type of clothing, gloves, a beanie and hunkered down under the sleeping bag and blankets. (I couldn't help but wonder if this was the deities way of laughing at me.. just the night before I had mentioned to Mom and Dad how I was beginning to get acclimated to the cold and didn't need nearly as many layers as before!)

Power was restored around 6 and the room is beginning to get the chill out. I don't even see my breath anymore!

End of Week One

2009-12-13T10:01:00.001+06:00

I am just completing my first week in Bumthang and am finding the weekend a welcome respite. The week was filled with anticipation and energy from multiple fronts. Subash and Tshering left for Thimphu on Tuesday making a few more stops for WWF US. I was finally able to get some assignments completed and am happy to report they are currently at the printer in Thimphu. Under D.S. Rai?s guidance I designed the official program/flyer and invitation for the First Annual Nomads? Festival.

The Prime Minister has reported he will be attending and official invites will be going out to 140 other guests. We are also expecting groups of tourists from China, Japan and Bali. The draw for this festival is the unprecedented opportunity to view dances, sample foods, and witness competitions between 11 nomadic groups from 8 different dzongkhags (districts). These groups are all nomadic herders from the highlands of the Bhutanese Himalayas. The festival is the first big celebration for Wangchuck Centennial Park and, if successful, will be a huge tourist draw in the future. Attracting visitors to the park will bring much needed money to the locals and help WWF fund more projects. Because the Department of Forestry and WWF are working together on this initiative, the environment and the species it houses are the first priority.

Our week was thrown a curveball when a Himalayan Black Bear wandered into a nearby village (within the park) and decided two heads of cattle would be the easiest meal before going into hibernation next month. The call came in late Wednesday night and all the rangers were dispatched to help the villagers remove the bear from the area. It became apparent this did not work when more animals were found dead, with the number rising to 8 by Saturday evening. The next step is to find the bear before the villagers do and sedate it so it came be moved further away from the village. (The village council will likely also call an astrologer to determine which protective deity has been upset and a religious ceremony will be performed).

If each week is this eventful and busy I am in for quite a ride!

The New Girl in Town

2009-12-12T09:57:00.002+06:00

I made the trek down to the main market on Saturday morning and got plenty of second glances along the way. It took about 40 minutes to get there and I passed three different villages. Each one had little kids who were anxious to practice their English. It seemed each one wanted their chance to say ?Hello!?, ?How are you??, ?Where are you from?? or ?What is your name??. They all have happy, inquisitive and smiling faces. I have found that their stature makes them appear much younger than they actually are. Some even hang their heads out the windows of their car to wave and shout a greeting.

Saturday evening D.S. Rai sent his driver for me to join them at the celebratory dinner for the graduates if the first hospitality training in Bumthang. Twelve girls were selected from villages within WCP and trained in the art of hotel/farm house management. The Department of Forestry and the Tourism Council of Bhutan coordinated the three-month course. These girls will be hosting many of the guests for the Nomads? Festival in their homes with their families.

It was the first time I got to sit and talk to D.S. Rai outside of work and we were able to learn a little bit more about each other and our backgrounds. He now knows how anxious I am to get into the field and I have a strong feeling he will make it happen. The dinner concluded with the graduates performing some dances and D.S. Rai explained them to me in detail. Some I had seen at the campfire, but others were knew. I had so many questions and was enthralled by them to the point I think he could see it on my face because he said, ?You?re going to love the Festival!?

Can?t wait!

The Food Situation

2009-12-10T12:13:00.000+06:00

I came to Bumthang under the impression most food items were going to be difficult to get. I stocked up on pasta and have a giant bag of rice, purchased more oil, soy sauce and oyster sauce than I ever thought I would need, and resigned myself to a life of bland foods... well three months at least.

Upon my arrival I found that there is a veritable pantheon of vegetables and fruits available, you just have to get to the market. Granted it's only a 10 minute drive, but I am carless so a brisk 30 minute walk there and back is in the cards. I will be happy for the extra exercise and really don't have much to do on Saturdays anyway. Food experimentation will be fun!

Meat is available for purchase here, but there is a bit of a catch. Buddhist do not believe in taking the life of another living thing and therefore will not kill anything for food. They will, however, eat something another has killed. Since 97% of the country is Buddhist, this does pose a problem. Most meat is butchered in India and then transported to Bhutan. In Thimphu or Paro this isn't a big deal since they are the "major" cities. Meat butchered and prepared for Bumthang can take almost a week to get here which would be fine, but refrigeration is not a guarantee and more often than not, the objection rather than the rule. I don't really need to risk a food borne illness, so being a vegetarian is the route I am taking, (Eggs don't fall under this Buddhist mantra so I will have those for breakfast!)

My Humble Abode

2009-12-09T14:16:00.002+06:00

I created this lovely video tour of my apartment, but technical difficulties have kept it in the editing room so
I have settled for a written version (but if you're interested check back because I am determined to get that
video up one way or another!)

Upon our arrival in Bumthang on Sunday evening, I discovered I still had no place to live. The original site had been chosen by people not from the area and when the Rangers went to get the keys, they deemed it unacceptable. Apparently it was way too big, quite far from work, and haunted. (Yes, haunted). That idea was scrapped and after an all day scramble, they found me a new place to settle down. Located in Dekiling village in Bumthang, I have a 3 bedroom, 2 bathroom, second-story apartment... it rents for $76 a month.

This is not like an apartment back in America. While it is quite large, it has no heat, no insulation, no hot water, no closets, and the kitchen's furnishings begin and end with some shelves. We had to bring in a table to set my glorified camp stove on. I have a propane tank connected to the stove and pretty much live off pasta, rice, eggs, assorted vegetables, and fruits.

Of the two bathrooms, only one has a functioning toilet so the other has been deemed the "laundry room." There isn't a mirror (which may be a blessing in disguise) and the "shower" is a set of knobs that stick out from the cement wall at waist level. Washing my hair is a chore and involves boiling 3 liters of water, pouring it in a bucket, adding cold water and lathering up from there; bathing occurs in the same fashion. Laundry is done a similar manner and by hand, one item at a time. I have clotheslines outside but the wind lately has scattered clothing up and down the street so I just drape wet clothes over the many doors and they drip dry... eventually.

My bedroom is where I spend the majority of my time when home. My heat source is a 3 foot tall rectangular unit that plugs into the wall and heats the room well enough. Initially the bed that was brought was only 5' 6'' long since it was for a female and here they barely hit 5'. That had to be removed and now I sleep one a wood plank bed that is 6 feet long. On top of that is a 3 inch foam matress, a sheet, my sleeping bag (complete with liner) and two heavy blankets. Thats all that is in the room. My clothes are laid out on the floor on the extra mat and sheets brought for camping.

Being on the second story gives me added security and there is only one set of very steep and narrow stairs that lead to my front door. The landlord lives on the floor above me with his wife and 5 daughters. I am lucky that he speaks English and is working on getting me a brokhuri (type of wood stove) to help with the heat. So far I am making it okay and have had no major problems. It takes a little getting used to but I am getting there. Besides, I just have to look out my windows to be reminded to the best feature.. the view.

I Made It!

2009-12-06T16:53:00.002+06:00

I have made it to Bumthang! We went over mountains, into valleys, hiked in marshes, and crossed many rivers (or it may have been one river many times?). The 361km drive is done and I am finally in the “town” where I will be doing the bulk of the work. I am putting up a few pictures as a sampling of the amazing stops we made and promise to post the stories behind them later this week (but yes, those are black-necked cranes, one of the most rare and endangered animals on the planet! Wait until you get the story behind that picture! )

It is quite cold, a thin layer of frost covers some plants but the sun is shining and it is dry. Tonight I will be staying a hotel since we arrive at 4:30pm on Sunday and there won’t be enough light left to get me moved into the house where I will be living.

I am here with a WWF Bhutan driver as well as the Deputy Director of the Eastern Himalays Eco-Region for the WWF USA and his wife. Tomorrow morning we will all head over to WCP headquarters and meet with D.S. Rai. He is the MoA manager for the park and the person I will be working closest with for the next few months. Then the other three will head back to Thimphu and the real fun starts!

Black-Necked Cranes

2009-12-06T00:02:00.001+06:00

We decided on an early start because it was going to take about ninety minutes to get from Kitchu Resort to Phobjika. Bhutan is the wintering home to about 300 black-necked cranes. They travel down to the valley of Phobjika from Tibet starting in late October and remain here until mid-February. Since most of the nomadic tribes in the area move to warmer parts of the country, the birds have found a fairly deserted place to nest. Due to habitat encroachment, the cranes are considered highly endangered and are one of the rarest animals on the planet at one point numbering only 800 in existence. They are so reclusive that they were the last of the crane species to be discovered.

Morning and dusk tend to be the best times to see the nesting black-necked cranes. We arrived right on schedule but under a thick fog cover as winter continues to roll in. Not to be discourage we drove to the Information Center WWF Bhutan has established. Here we learned more about the cranes, spoke to the surveyors who maintain the individual counts and we were able to see some cranes feeding out in the marshes. The fog slowly began to lift and we walked down to a local hotel for a cup of tea and biscuits. On our way back we made one last stop at the Information Center and used their spotting scopes to see a little further out and catch a few more glimpses of the cranes.

Cranes are different from most birds in that they don't travel in flocks. They move in family groups ranging from three to ten and mate for life. Subash and I were disappointed we hadn't been able to get any good pictures of the birds, but just seeing them is an amazing experience. On our way out we passed more marshland and the road rose higher out of the valley. Pema spotted a family black-necked cranes among some grazing cattle. There were two adults and one juvenile, a young family.

As soon as the car stopped, Subash and I couldn't get out of the car fast enough. (He had mentioned his new found interest in photography and really wanted some great shots to take back to the US). We snapped away, but the birds were still distant and began moving being a small grove of conifers. He looked at me and said, "I want to get more pictures, but I don't think we can get down there". After confirming with Tshering and Pema it was okay to head down into the marsh I told Sbash we were heading down!

So down the hill we went, passed grazing cows, under thorny scrub brush, and ankle deep in marsh mud. I ended up much muddier than he did, but it was worth it. Around one bend and the birds were within 30 yards. We stood there, firing away, pausing to take a breath and realize what we were seeing. How funny it was to be up to my mid-calf in mud, being cold enough I could see my breath, and still feeling completely content capturing this rare sight.

Punakha Dzong

2009-12-05T12:22:00.005+06:00

Originally my trip to Bumthang was going to be made with D.S Rai (the Chief Forestry Officer for WCP) and completed in one day. With the pressure of the upcoming festival and other extenuating circumstances, my trip was pushed back a few days. While I first thought of this as a disappointment, it turned out to be a divine intervention of the best kind!

I was informed early Friday morning that I would be leaving for Bumthang the following morning with some higher-ups in the organization. It was then I also learned the seven-hour drive would be spread out over two days and involve a few stops along the way. Pema picked me up first at the hotel on Saturday morning and with a truck packed with everything I would need for the next three months. Our second stop was to get Tshering, the finance and account manager for WWF Bhutan, whom I had met on a few occasions. Our last stop was for the special guests. It turned out I would be spending the weekend sightseeing and chatting the Subash Lohani, the Deputy Director of the Eastern Himalayas from the WWF US, and his new bride. What luck!

Day one of the trip took us up to Dochu La, the same pass we had previously stopped at during our ride for the overnight practical. It was again shrouded in fog and quite cold. Still it is an amazingly quiet place and the newest symbol of Buddhist tradition in Bhutan. From there we drove on to a restaurant perched at the highest point on the pass for lunch. More Bhutanese cuisine that will make even the strongest mouth tingle! Casual conversation kept the ride lively (as there are only three radio stations in Bhutan) and Subash and I were able to trade stories about travels abroad, (he was born and raised in Nepal).

Our first big sightseeing spot was Punakha Dzong, the second monastery to be built in Bhutan. It differs from others in that is not constructed at a mountain peak, but rather seems to almost rise out of a river. Its base is on a small island between the Mo Chhu and Pho Chhu rivers. Since Buddhists originally built these places as fortresses, the location is ideal to provide protection. The main stairway can actually be hauled up to keep intruders out. We were able to take pictures in the main entries, but again, the temple that housed three enormous gold-plated bronze statues, was off-limits for photos.

After the tour from Tshering ended we climbed back in the truck for a short drive to Kitchu Resort in Wangdue. The rooms had balconies that extended over a river and my first night out of Thimphu came to an end there.

Ideal Outcomes & Objectives

2009-11-30T16:25:00.001+06:00

Today I received the revised document stating the desired outcomes from WWF Bhutan. This was developed when Tashi (the Communications Officer) and I spoke about my goals and specific skill set.

The Wangchuck Centennial Park Manager arrives at the office on Wednesday (December 2nd). I will have a meeting with him in which we decide if I will depart Thursday or Friday for the park. I will return to Thimphu at the end of February and spend the last month compiling my work and completing the second part of my internship.

At Wangchuck Centennial Park (December thru February):
* Prepare communications package for the Nomad's Festival (annual festival)
* Assist with preparation and development for communications and public information packets for WCP
* Create brochures and visitor information fliers for all aspects of WCP
* Develop a photographic database for WCP to be used for the park's current and future communication works
* Assist with any other field work at the request of WCP management

At WWF Bhutan (March):
* Train WWF staff on basic photography skills for picture taking in the field
* Assist in re-development of WWF Bhutan website

Taktshang (Tiger's Nest) Dzong

2009-11-29T11:44:00.002+06:00

I truly believed my eyes would never see a man-made item that could rival the Taj Mahal. The feeling of sheer awe that washes over a person setting eyes on it for the first simply cannot be replicated… or so I thought. I had seen pictures of Taktshang Dzong but the photographs never did it justice. It was originally constructed in 1692 as a gift to Guru Riponoche symbolizing his success in subduing a local demon who was wreaking havoc in Bhutan. The folklore would have one believe he flew to this spot on the back of a tigress (a manifestation of Yeshe Tsogyal). The tigress then left impressions of her body marking the spot a holy site. Many saints have come to this spot to meditate for months in caves or on seemingly impossible overhangs. (Parts of the monastery were destroyed in a fire in 1998 and renovations were completed in 2005).

It looks as though it is literally carved out of the mountainside and the many temples seem to be never-ending. After 2 grueling hours of hiking up what feels like a constantly vertical trail, all visitors come to a main viewing point. Just across a ravine (about 10300 ft high) you see the Buddhist masterpiece. The view and glimpses one gets when the clouds part every now and then on the journey up do nothing to prepare you for it. Only here can one see the monastery alive with life as red-robed monks move about thanking and blessing the visitors, hear the hundreds of prayer flags clapping in the wind, and smell the lavender water being brewed for the days meditations. The waterfall gushes water over a thousand feet down and if the expression “getting a second wind” ever applied, it is now.

A quick glance down the cliff and the trail becomes noticeable. No longer a dirt path, but hundreds of stairs zigzag down one side of the mountain and up the next, only connected by a short bridge directly in from of the waterfall. It seemed like every 5 steps a new picture had to be taken. The prayer flags framed the dzong differently or the angle of the sun made the roof tiles sparkle or for a few moments a monk was stopping to feel the presence of the place he called home.

There are many rooms and shrines housed in the monastery. Cameras, bags, and shoes are all checked at the main entrance and admittance is only granted if you are a Bhutanese native or if a special has been issued by the government (yes we had them!) Each room is different but all house a bronze or gold Buddha, at least four feet tall. The tradition is to walk around the room clockwise, an odd number of times, and follow the stories painted on the rugs hanging from the walls. Incense, butter wax for lamps, snacks or monetary donations are made in each room. Followers if Buddhism can be seen doing traditional bowing that involves a mantra, touching of the forehead, mouth and chest, and concluding with a bow where one puts their forehead to the floor. This is typically done three times and all the Bhutanese are in their traditional dress.

Truly a cultural overload and a site that cannot be missed, the hike up only makes the place more magical and surreal.

Butter Lamps

2009-11-29T11:43:00.000+06:00

As we hiked up the trail there were many places that had been marked as significant points of interest. One of these was a place on the mountainside where the tigress Guru Riponoche was riding stopped and left her impressions in the rock. Here one could light a butter lamp and say a prayer for good luck. Below is a picture of the tigress's eye print. (A footprint is also in the rock, but set too far back for me to get a decent picture.) After lighting the candle, a monk pours lavender holy water into your palm. The tradition is to drink half of it and the other half is poured/patted on top of your head.

More From the Hike

2009-11-29T11:02:00.001+06:00

Bits of Buddhism Along the Way

2009-11-29T10:55:00.002+06:00

These little sculptures are found in caves and crevices along the trail. They are typically made from flour, water and ashes of the dead after they are cremated by the family of the one who has passed. They are left out to dry after being molded, then painted. For superstitious reasons they are placed away from the family home.

These are more prayer flags, obviously worn by the gusty winds of the Himalayan mountains. This type of prayer flag is known as lungdhar and are placed for good luck, protection from an illness, or fulfillment of a personal goal. They commonly have a name written on them. When to hang them and how many to hang is determined by a minister at the annual religious ceremony of the household. The monastery can be seen in background.

One of my favorite shots so far, this picture captures three examples of buddhist tradition. The first being traditional prayer flags, next a six foot prayer wheel, and finally Tibetan prayer flags in the background.

A painting of Guru Riponoche, the man who is said to have ridden the tigress to this mountain for meditation. (see the post on Taktshang Dzong for a better explanation) Notice the prayer flags and cremation sculptures that surround this illustration. This was painted on one of the caves along the way to the monastery.

The Hike to Taktshang Dzong

2009-11-29T10:18:00.006+06:00

Early Sunday morning Yangchi & Dechen arrived at my hotel to pick me up for the trek to Taktshang Dzong. The monastery is located in Paro and it would take us just over an hour to drive there. On the way we picked up Jan and Ute as well. This monastery is considered one of the holiest destinations for a pilgrimage in the Buddhist religion. The hike up took two and a half hours and went from 7480 feet above sea level to 10300 feet. This first picture is taken at a large prayer wheel halfway up the walk. If you look in the mountains behind the woman, the monastery is barely visible. The white spots on the gray landscape... thats our destination.

The trail on the way up is rocky and almost vertical the entire way. We were surrounded by evergreen forests filled with birds who chirped constantly as if rooting the hikers on. Prayer flags are seen everywhere, strung over bridges, between trees and on poles 11 feet high. Once we reached the chasm of the first mountain, we found stairs leading down the mountainside, across the waterfall, and back up the the monastery. Stacks of rocks lined the stairway as another symbol of prayers and wishes of those who have come before.

A Quick Who's Who

2009-11-28T11:19:00.003+06:00

Just a few tid-bits so everyone knows who I am referring to in the posts and how they fit in this tale. I will update this as I meet more people.

Yangchi - Assistant to the Communications Director at WWF Bhutan. She has been my "tour guide" so far and we are about the same age. She was born in India to Bhutanese parents and returned only 3 years ago to work in Bhutan.

Dechen - Assistant Programs Officer. She is a good friend of Yangchi's and their biographies are identical.

Jan - One of two consultants working with WWF Bhutan. He is originally from Kansas, but has two sisters that live in Tualatin, Oregon (small world!). He has been living here for almost a year with his wife Ute. They are field researchers both working towards PhD's. Their next stop is Laos, after a quick stop home.

Ute - One of two consultants working with WWF Bhutan. She is originally from Germany, but has been working in the field for over two years. She has been to Poland, the UK, South Africa and the US.

Subash - Deputy Director of the Eastern Himalayas Eco-Region for WWF US.

Pema - WWF Bhutan driver

Tshering - WWF Bhutan Finance and Accounts Manager

DS Rai - Chief Forestry Officer for Wangchuck Centennial Park (my boss)

Mano - DS Rai's eldest son (23)

Baddham - DS Rai's younger son (19)

Cheten - works in His Majesty's Wellness Office and has offered to take me to see sights in Bumthang (no longer will be seeing him)

Kinga - forester for WCP. My guide and new friend for the Bumthang Valley

Gyaltsen - Kinga's best friend and also our taxi driver for all the excursions

Around the Camp Fire

2009-11-26T22:06:00.001+06:00

Videos of chants

Sitting around a campfire in Bhutan was remarkably similar to a campfire in America. Songs, chants, jokes and stories were told for hours. The link above will show a few of the chants and dances the Bhutanese traditionally do at different celebrations. There were many more they performed, but some I got up and participated in so I have no video. This night did give me two memorable stories to tell though.

As mentioned in the prior post, Kinjay had brought out plenty of alcohol for everyone to enjoy. After awhile they began asking the Americans (Jan & myself) to perform some traditional American songs or dances. Jan was brave and told a few jokes and did some swing dancing with Ute. I had no idea what to do. Phruba (a Program Officer for WWF Bhutan) decided I needed to feel a little more "at home" and announced he would sing one of his favorite American songs. Now I was expecting some lullaby or a little ditty he may have picked up along the way, but nothing prepared me for his performance. Phurba is a jovial, round man, probably in his late 30's. He stood up on the stage and proceeded to rap every verse of Ice, Ice Baby by Vanilla Ice... complete with "rapper moves." I thought I was going to fall out of my chair I was laughing so hard. One of the other guides now continues to hum the melody whenever we gather or he walks by. This was definitely not something I will forget!

After Phurba's performance I was called on again to finally add some American input. I had no idea what to do, but then inspiration struck. I was thinking back to the last few camp outs I had gone on.. trying to think of something easy. Then it hit me... it is Thanksgiving, I am a Hanlon, why not pull from that volume of traditions? I grabbed about six of my Bhutanese friends and they all now can do the Hokey Pokey! So not only did I get to create a great memory in the middle of the Himalayan mountains, but I got a little family tradition of my own on Thanksgiving!

Over Night with WWF Bhutan

2009-11-26T13:46:00.002+06:00

The majority of the WWF Bhutan office set out for an overnight adventure in the Royal Botanical Park on Wednesday afternoon. The drive took about 2.5 hours along a winding mountain road. At the top of the peaks sits a monastery known as Dochula. Dochula was erected in 2003 as a gift to the gods to help protect the Bhutanese Royal Army when they flushed out militant members of an Indian group hiding in the forests. The main monastery is surrounded by 108 chortels to enhance the protective powers. We stopped here & were greeted by a bonfire, tea & biscuits. There is nothing like sitting on a mountaintop, surrounded by evergreen forests, sipping tea & reflecting on the tranquil powers of Buddhism.

We arrived at the Park 45 minutes later & the rangers quickly set-up camp. Shortly after arrival the Country Representative (the head of the office, Kinjay) brought out oro &Johnnie Walker whiskey. Oro is a local drink they refer to as “wine” but is really more like 80 proof moonshine. It is typically served heated, occasionally with an egg poached in it. Kinjay had prepared this batch himself & included coricepts in it. Coricepts are a mealworm like creature that gets impregnated with a fungus that eventually kills it & grows into a vegetable protuberance. It is highly revered & very expensive as it is used in traditional Chinese & Bhutanese “medicines.” They were added just for us (Jan, Ute & myself), so we had to try it. I figured my mouth was still tingling from all the chilies we had for dinner.. why not go for the whole Bhutanese experience!

Camera Trapping

2009-11-26T12:46:00.001+06:00

Camera trapping is a method used to identify species & individuals in a certain location. For our purposes, we were just using the cameras for one night to see if we could identify any specific species within The Royal Botanical Park in Lanpherli. They are commonly used in one-month periods or longer, then rotated to cover more area & the home ranges of carnivores. The locals at WWF Bhutan had never set-up the cameras so Jan & Ute decided to take them out to show them how it all works.

The cameras are in plastic housings that are made to look like a tree. When an animal passes in front of the infared beam it triggers the camera to fire. It will only go off every 30 seconds so it won’t take multiple shots of the same animal. We set four traps, but only one camera caught any wildlife: a muntjac (barking deer) & blood pheasant.

Mini-Adventure & Happy Thanksgiving

2009-11-26T09:38:00.002+06:00

After working a shortened day, all of WWF Bhutan is heading out for an overnight in the field to get some hands-on experience. Though most have no scientific background at all, it is good for them to see how the information in the reports is gathered and to have a basic understanding of surveying. There are supposed to be plenty of birds and ungulates to photograph.. I can't wait!

Today it is Thanksgiving back home, obviously not a holiday celebrated in Bhutan. The list of things I have to be thankful for is never-ending. I know how lucky I am to have a large family who supports me in all that I do, a great set of friends to keep me grounded and sane, and the chance to be living my dream. So on this day, when Americans join together to remember how blessed they truly are, I too remember how fortunate I am. Love you all!

Prayer Wheels & Prayer Flags

2009-11-25T09:25:00.008+06:00

The Buddhist religion runs very strong through every aspect of Bhutanese society. Every day people set aside time to visit a monastery or turn prayer wheels. These wheels can be found in most courtyards housed in buildings such as the one shown in the picture on the right. They are to be turned clockwise and always an odd number of times (the most common being 3, the most auspicious being 108). At monasteries or places of high religious importance the prayer wheels can be over 6 feet in height with chimes attached. It is as these places where it is common to find men, women and children gathered for hours mumbling prayers to Buddha and other deities.

Prayer flags permeate towns and can be found in clusters on hillsides, hanging from bridges or roofs, and on tall poles in front of homes, buildings or playing fields. These are blessed by ministers on special occasions and placed to attract good luck, ward off evil spirits, bless the dead or pray for a healthy harvest. The writing and pictures on the flags varies depending on the reason for the placement and reinforce the prayer wish.

Location

2009-11-22T18:27:00.001+06:00

Snapshots of Bhutanese Culture

2009-11-21T16:02:00.000+06:00

Meet a Takin Herd

2009-11-21T15:39:00.000+06:00

One of the most interesting parts of Bhutanese culture are the intense followings of superstitions & religion. I got to see firsthand one of the most revered & storied creatures in this Asian country. There is a preserve just north of Thimphu setup & founded by the WWF hoping to insure the survival of this "threatened" species.

Their national animal is a takin & it is unlike any animal I have seen. A strange cross between a yak & goat, its docile nature & calm disposition make it an animal fitting for such a culture. So strange of a creature it in fact cannot be closely related to any other animal on the planet. So different it has its own genus & species classification. The takin is almost entirely endemic to Bhutan.

This only helps to add to the stories of its creation. The most common concerns the Divine Madman. It is believed that while he was visiting a small village they asked him to perform a miracle. First he said he needed to be fed & the villagers brought him a yak & goat. Once he was finished, he took the skull of the yak & placed it on the body of the goat. It instantly sprang to life & began grazing.

Bhutan's Beauty

2009-11-20T23:59:00.002+06:00

I woke up on Friday morning ready to get moving on the next part of my adventure. India was an astounding place with plenty to see and experience, but I knew my big adventure was awaiting me in Bhutan. Though I was running late for the plane, my hostel manager assured me it would not be a problem.. he was right. Despite the traffic jams that seem to be never ending on Delhi's main roads, I arrived with plenty of time.

DrukAir operates on more of a "we-will-takeoff-when-we-are-ready" philosophy anyway. The amount of luggage I was bringing was also a concern due to the websites strict 20kg only policy. But a small fee was assessed and all my baggage hitched a ride to Bhutan.

That airplane ride was like nothing I have ever experienced. Never before I have I not wanted a plane to land. Turbulence was a problem, but the views were stunning. Once we flew out of India and over Nepal the smog dispersed, clouds parted, and the most majestic mountain landscape came into view. Snow-capped mountain tops peeked through low lying mist, evergreen trees covered every possible surface, and the only sign of human life was the prayer flags that dotted the hillside. We cruised over the Himalayas and the enormity of Mt. Everest was heart-stopping.

As we began our descent more examples of human inhabitants came into focus. Whipping prayer flags, ornate buildings that appeared to be carved into the mountainside, leveled rice fields and roads with more camels than cars were our first introduction to Bhutan. The tin roofs were covered in drying green and red chilies.. something I have come to learn this region is famous for. As the plane touched down on a short runway, I couldn't help but notice the fact we had literally landed in a canyon. Steep mountainsides rose up from the North and South. We disembarked directly onto the tarmac and were greeted by Bhutanese officials dressed in ghos and keras (their traditional costume).

The feeling of peace and serenity permeates this country.. and I can't help but to feel it wash over me. Standing on the tarmac in what may be the world's most beautiful country, it finally hit me that I was here, starting a new adventure, writing the next chapter of my life and it was destined to be an amazing one.

Injuries & Oops - Running Tally

2009-11-20T23:58:00.001+06:00

We all know it just wouldn't be me if I hadn't managed to do something off kilter...

11.18.2009 - Turn to laugh at joke from colleague & walk into a low street sign. Homeless kids thought it was hysterical, my forehead didn't

11.19.2009 - Slip & fall down set of marble stairs in the hostel. Lovely pair of bruises on my ankle & thigh

11.20.2009 - Drop passport out of my pocket & leave on airplane. Was safely recovered

Land of the Thunder Dragon

2009-11-20T23:55:00.000+06:00

I have safely made it to Bhutan where I will spend my next 123 days. My first 12 are in Thimphu getting acquainted & working out of the main office. We work 9-5, Monday through Friday & my colleagues want to make sure I see as much of their country as possible. No doubt I will be busy, but each night I will be able to edit more photos & post more stories.. I already have so many to tell!

After that it's off to a different part of Bhutan than originally thought, much farther north. But on the plus side, photography is going to play a much bigger role in my assignment. No complaints here! Until the next post..

Miss you all!

A Promise For More

2009-11-20T07:59:00.000+06:00

**Posts will be put up by day they were experienced, not necessarily the day they are posted**

I can't tell you the amazing things I have seen in the last 48 hours! I'm trying to keep a journal every night so I don't forget a thing! I will blog all about it when I have a chance to sit & put my thoughts into coherent sentences. (Yesterday started at 5:00am & I didn't get back to the hostel until after midnight).

My time in India has come to an end, but this morning I leave for Bhutan & my placement with the WWF. Miss you all! Will post more soon! I can't wait to show you the pictures!

Akbar the Great's Mausoleum

2009-11-19T20:23:00.000+06:00

Akbar the Great was one of the great Mughal Emperors. He had a love for animals & his mausoleum has become a safe haven for many different species.

See!! I Really Went!!

2009-11-19T19:07:00.000+06:00

Red Faced Macaques

2009-11-19T16:52:00.000+06:00

These are the friendly little guys that loved the camera at Agra Fort. The fort was stunning & these monkeys only added to the charm!

Agra Fort

2009-11-19T09:08:00.000+06:00

Precious Stone Inlay in Style of Taj Mahal

2009-11-19T08:07:00.000+06:00

After viewing the Taj Mahal my guide took me to a marble shop where they work in the same style as the people who did the inlay work on the Taj Mahal all those years ago. It starts with the master coming up with a design and it being traced onto white marble. The stone is then temporarily stained red so the next step can be completed. Using a small chisel the marble is chipped away leaving impressions of the design. The men then grind down the precious stones to fit into the design using a rope, sandstone wheel & man power. None of it is mechanized. The pieces are placed onto the marble with a basic glue then polished until they shine. The result is absolutely gorgeous.

Around Delhi

2009-11-18T20:47:00.002+06:00

From the moment I landed in Dehli, India every sense was assaulted. My eyes didn't have time to focus on one happening before something else was drawing my attention. The cacophony of blaring horns, begging children, overzealous vendors and bleating cattle were impossible to comprehend. Smells of burning trash, sizzling roadside grills, and musty animals infiltrated my nostrils. Thrown into this city after 16 hours on an airplace circulating recycled air was going from one extreme to the next.
It is hard to believe this city exists and it is a weird mash-up as the old ways of life are still very much visible here. Cabs, rickshaws, cars, motorcycles, buses, dogs, goats, cows, donkeys, and camels all vie for room on the highway. Everything comes at a negotiable price and the smallest favors require a "tip" (so I quickly learned to carry my own bags). Even from the static calmness of a car, the chaos on the streets is overwhelming. Children run up to every car stuck in traffic either trying to sell some trinkets or simply begging for food. I can't tell you how heart-breaking it is to have an 8 year old girl in rags, with matted hair, a baby pappoosed on her back, tapping at your window, bringing her hand to her mouth hoping for her next meal. And there are hundreds of them dodging cars and being shooed away by the native drivers.
The backdrop to all this seems to be something from another planet. Old shacks, modern buildings, and ancient mosques make the skyline like no other place on Earth. The history and the culture are waiting to be uncovered by the next tourist courageous enough to brave the streets.

My hostel, located about 10 minutes from Indira Ghandi Airport, is on the Main Bazaar in New Dehli. A couple of quick turns down the alley and there is a narrow glass door held open by the manager. He pointed me up three flights of stairs and along the way I was delighted to find I wasn't the only traveler staying here. My room was quite small and had space for the one bed in it. There was a toilet and sink in the bathroom, but no toilet paper or mirror. Oddly enough there was not outlet I could use either. The one in the room was being used by a broken old tv and even the plug was bolted to the wall.

Finally at a stopping point I was able to take everything in. I didn't have anywhere to be for the next 12 hours and sleep came very quckly.

An Idea of Scale

2009-11-18T08:56:00.000+06:00

The massiveness of these tombs & shrines is hard to see in a photo. To give you an idea of the scale, here is a photo of one of the smaller tombs in Lodhi Gardens. Next to it is a picture of me sitting the main, center doorway.

Lodhi Gardens

2009-11-18T07:54:00.000+06:00

First Stop - New Dehli

2009-11-17T19:24:00.000+06:00

Hey all! I have made it to New Dehli safe & sound. We are about 11 hours ahead of PST. If I wasn't so tired I would tell you all the crazy things I saw on the drive to the hostel, but that will have to wait until tomorrow evening. I never thought I would see oxen & buses competing for lane space on a paved highway..

Tomorrow's agenda includes the Indian Habitat, Lodi Gardens & Sufdarjung's Tomb. I'm happy, healthy & excited!!

Love you all!

Away We Go...

2009-11-16T19:32:00.000+06:00

As I am sitting here in the Portland airport I can't help but reflect on the journey I have gone on to get to this point. There are so many people to thank & they all know who they are. The emotional support, physical help, reservation assistance & overall love has been overwhelming. I know I am so very lucky to have all of you in my life. This truly is the opportunity of a lifetime & I am so grateful to have the chance to live this dream.

I am nervous, scared, excited & anxious to get to Asia. After I land in New Delhi, India I will be staying in a hostel for 3 days. The first full day I have there I will be meeting with some volunteers working with WWF India & they are going to take me around New Delhi & explore the sights. The second day I will be getting on a train & traveling to the Taj Mahal. There I will meet a guide who will take me to the monument & tour Agra. The final day I will travel to Bhutan where the plan is to spend the first 12 days briefing with WWF Bhutan.

Ok, time to board the flight. I love you all & can't wait to share this experience with you! I will post as often as I can & will watch for your comments. Please note the contact information listed on the side of the blog. Feel free to send me an email or chat with me on Skype!

First Two Weeks

2009-10-28T03:06:00.000+06:00

I have received the plan for my first two weeks! I will land in India on November 17th and will get to spend three days exploring the country. While I will be on my own for travel, I will be connecting with a few people working with the WWF India. I will be staying in a hostel in New Dehli, which will provide daily internet access! I hope to get to travel around Old Dehli & New Dehli.. keeping my fingers crossed I have time to make the trek to the Taj Mahal.

On the morning of November 20th I will board a small plane and fly to Paro Airport in Bhutan. My first 12 days will be spent in Thimphu (the capital city) getting acquainted with the country & the customs. I will be staying in a hotel in Bhutan, spending time learning how this tiny country operates. (Keeping in mind it wasn't until 1999 that Internet & television were made "legal"). My headquarters will be at the offices of WWF Bhutan where I will get all the details on my assignments & projects. On December 3rd I will repack everything & head to Wangchuck National Park.

As of today, every i has been dotted & all t's have been crossed. I have 3 different visas, a new passport, booked 7 flights, been re-vaccinated & have all my medications. All thats left to do is pack & get on the plane! 19 days left ....

Glossary of Terms

2009-10-17T14:52:00.002+06:00

Dasho - term of honor for high ranking official; usually designated by a red dichu given by the King
Dichu - long scarf worn around the gho, usually of a specific color to signify rank
Dzong - fortress monastery of the Buddhist religion
Dzongkhag - district
Goemba - a Buddhist Monastery
Gho - term for the national men's dress in Bhutan
Gup - local governor or high ranking official
Kira - term for the national women's dress in Bhutan
Lhakhang - temple
Puja - expressions of honor or worship
Stupa - hemispherical Buddhist structure

One Month to Go

2009-10-17T06:39:00.001+06:00

After job rearranging, budget tightening, and tons of research I have accepted a position with the World Wildlife Fund, International. I will be traveling to a very small country called Bhutan. Bhutan is a Buddhist country about the size of Switzerland and ranges from deep valleys to the tops of the Himalayas.

I will also have the opportunity to explore India.

My trip begins November 16th at 6:25am and lasts for four months, as I return March 23rd. The WWF is committed to preserving and maintaining the greatest biologically diverse areas in the world. They have recently established a new National Park in Bhutan. It is called Wangchuck Centennial Park and located in the Central Northern region of the country. I will be working alongside the WWF Bhutan Office establishing the Living Himalayas Program.

My main objective is to create conservation materials (brochures, pamphlets, animal information sheets, etc) for the new national park. I will also be serving as a liaison between the WWF Bhutan and other environmental groups for the duration of my stay. Part of this will include creating a photographic database for the park, which includes documenting current species of plant and wildlife. Animals known to be in the area are red pandas, bengal tigers, snow leopards, takin, black-necked cranes, wild dogs (dholes), and a variety of jungle antelope. In the last year at least three previously believed extinct species of bird were rediscovered. This is truly an untouched, unmarred territory.

Wish me luck!

Contact Information

2009-10-17T01:56:00.000+06:00

Email: kimizmail@comcast.net

Skype: Kimberlee Adolph

Phone: +975 179 91566

Mailing Address (write "Kimberlee Adolph" on package):
WWF Bhutan
Yangchi Pema
PO 210
Thimphu, Bhutan